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1. #WORCESTER GREENSTAR 30CDI COMBI BOILER INSTALLATION MANUAL MANUAL#
2. #WORCESTER GREENSTAR 30CDI COMBI BOILER INSTALLATION MANUAL FULL#

I contacted Bosch about the manual lockshield valve and they weren't unduly concerned that an ABV hadn't been fittted, but I also appreciate that fitting one would be advantageous.Ī Magnetic filter was fitted at the time of the Boiler installation - it's been checked/cleaned on every yearly service. I appreciate that an automatic bypass valve is now the norm. Is the issue more than likely the Bypass valve, which is a manual gate valve type arrangement (with a lock shield) or an inefficient pump?Īny suggestions or methods for testing would be appreciated. I've had the bleed screw off the top of the pump and the pump is spinning. I've even replaced one radiator and TRV with new items, but still only get a luke warm radiator.

#WORCESTER GREENSTAR 30CDI COMBI BOILER INSTALLATION MANUAL FULL#

I've had a couple of radiators off and although full of dirty water, weren't blocked. However, the supply pipes to each radiator in the 2-pipe system are extremely hot so hot water is being presented to the radiators. Why this is, I don't know, but thought it may be because of blockages in radiators/pipework? I understand that this is perhaps why the Boiler is short-cycling as not enough heat is dissipated through the radiators and most of the heated water is just circulating. At the point where the Bypass valve is connected to the Return pipe, upstream of the connection, the pipe is luke warm, but downstream of the connection, it's very hot. The Room Stat is working as expected and when temperature is satisfied, Boiler shuts down and pump goes onto over-run.Īfter further investigation, although some heated water is reaching the radiators (some radiators getting very hot, some just warm & some cool), it appears that a lot of the heated water is passing through the Bypass valve back into the return to the boiler and both 28mm pipes at the boiler are very hot. (I've checked the Switched Live to the boiler and it's there so heat is being called for) I assume this is the term as the Boiler frequently stops and starts through out the day despite there being a demand for heat from the Central Heating Timer.

I have since noticed that the boiler appears to be short-cycling. On top of that, the majority of the radiators in my house never get to a temperature that I would expect, but assumed it was because of poor flow rates through the radiators due to sludge build-up etc. I was more than happy with the installation, but have never seemed to achieve the savings I thought I may have done over my old Ideal Turbo 2 boiler. The Boiler is used in a vented S-plan system, with two motorised valves, a manual Bypass Valve, a British Gas (Grundfos) Multi-head pump, Hot Water cylinder and 12 radiators of varying sizes (Total Output of the Radiators come to 18.5kW) Bosch have told be that the Boiler isn't over-spec'd for the current configuration. I had a Bosch Worcester 30CDi Greenstar Classic Regular Boiler installed in 2014. My first post, so apologies for any incorrect terminology